Friday, January 13, 2017

Oxtails

Just about four years ago, an acupuncturist ordered me to make myself a pot of oxtail soup. I was about to bring my third child into the world, and I was tired. Every part of me ached, my winter coat no longer zipped over my belly, and the big, wise boy I was carrying was doing everything he could to avoid January in New York City; he stayed put for two extra weeks. I never did make that oxtail soup, but I always meant to, and there have been plenty of times when I could've used a bowl. The recipe Nana described to me was dead simple: simmer the oxtails gently for an extended period and season minimally at the end. That was it.

Recently, I asked my friend Min—who, like Nana, is from Korea—if she had a similar version. Turns out, she does, and she was just about to make some. To my text query she replied: “Oxtail soup recipe is really simple but your house will smell like a 🐮.” Later, she sent me a video of the brew bubbling away furiously on her stove like a jacuzzi. 


Min begins by soaking the oxtail to leech out the blood, then simmers the soup for two days, pausing overnight and adding back water to offset evaporation. The resulting broth is rich, milky, restorative. She seasons it with just salt, pepper, and scallions and uses the base for dumpling soup or ramen.

The excellent cookbook A New Way to Dinner, from the Food 52 team, contains an oxtail stew recipe of a more Italian flavor. As I set about cooking my first oxtails, I contemplated which route I wanted to take. 
I liked the purity and simplicity of Min’s and Nana’s version, the notion of allowing only time and hot water to coax the flavor and nutrients out of the meat and bones. When making stews, I usually take a rustic French approach, building flavor with lots of vegetables and aromatics and wine, the result being thick, dark, rich, and just a bit tomato-y. In the end I hewed to the familiar, because I wanted a heartier meal, one whose leftovers might be made into pasta sauce the next night.  


I started with meat from my favorite butcher, Fleishers, which sources humanely raised animals from New York State and can typically supply any part of the beast you'd like. At many good butchers, Fleishers included, you'll probably need to order the oxtail ahead of time; ask the butcher to cut the tail into segments along the joints. 



The size of the oxtail pieces will vary widely—just imagine a cow's tail (or don't) and you'll see why. Some were quite large, almost like osso buco. I recommend soaking them for a little over an hour to leach out impurities and blood. Be patient with the browning process, because it really does make a huge difference, and at the end of your long, slow braise you'll have intense flavor and richness. This is the sort of dish that benefits from a couple of days' rest in the refrigerator so the flavors meld together and the meat is truly falling off the bone. Don't be alarmed by the way the liquid congeals when it's cold, either—this is due to all the good gelatin and collagen that have infused the broth, and which will lend it a silky consistency. 

We'll enjoy this in Vermont this weekend as we build a fire with friends, play in the snow, and purposefully tune out current events. It's comfort in a bowl. 


Braised Oxtails 
Serves around 8 

Ingredients:
  • 5-6 lbs. oxtails, cut into their natural segments
  • Salt and pepper
  • 2 TBS olive oil
  • 4 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 2"-3" batons
  • 2 stalks of celery, chopped into small pieces
  • 2 leeks, white and pale green parts only, sliced thin
  • 1 small onion, chopped into small pieces
  • 3 parsnips, peeled and cut into 2"-3" batons
  • 3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
  • 1 bottle red wine
  • 1 cup chicken, beef, or vegetable stock (water will do in a pinch)
  • Several rosemary sprigs
  • 1 bay leaf
  • Several parsley stems
  • Several thyme sprigs (optional)
  • 2 TBS tomato paste
  • Rind of 1 orange cut into large swaths, white pith removed
Instructions:
  1. Put oxtails in a bowl and cover with cold salted water. Let soak in the refrigerator for 1-2 hours. Once soaked, remove them from water and dry each piece thoroughly and sprinkle the surface with salt and pepper. Using kitchen twine, make a little bundle with the rosemary, bay leaf, parsley stems, and thyme if using. Tie securely.
  2. Preheat oven to 325°. In a larch dutch oven or heavy pot, heat the olive oil and brown the meat on all sides, taking care not to crowd the pot (pieces should not touch) or burn the bottom. As each piece is browned, remove it to a platter. 
  3. Once you've browned the meat, pour off all but a couple tablespoons of the fat (there may be quite a bit). Put chopped leeks and onions into the pot and sauté them for a few minutes, until they're starting to wilt, then add carrots and cook for a few more minutes. Remove vegetables to a bowl—you will add them back, along with the parsnips (which soften faster), later in the cooking. 
  4. Return meat and juices, plus the herb bundle you made, to the pot and pour the wine and stock over it. Meat will most likely not be fully covered. Bring the liquid up to a boil, lower to a simmer, and allow to simmer uncovered for 10 minutes or so. Put the top on and transfer to the oven. Every 30 minutes or so, turn and rearrange the meat so all surfaces get a chance to be submerged. After about an hour, add the vegetables, including the parsnips and garlic, into the pot. Stir in the tomato paste. 
  5. Continue to cook in the oven, rotating meat and vegetables occasionally, for a total of around 3½ hours. Add the orange rind in the last hour or so of cooking. Once it's done and fork tender, taste the broth and add more salt, if it needs it. Either serve immediately or allow to cool somewhat at room temperature before transferring to a storage container and putting in the fridge to serve later. The oxtails can be refrigerated for up to four days, benefitting from the rest, and also freeze nicely. When chilled the fat will rise to the top, where it is easily scraped off and discarded. Before serving, remove herb bundle and orange rind. You can serve meat right on the bone or shred it and serve it with broth and vegetables. 
  6. Serve hot over egg noodles or on its own with good, crusty bread. 
Optional: make a gremolata with chopped parsley, minced garlic, and lemon zest, and salt to taste; sprinkle on top just before serving.












SaveSave

23 comments:

  1. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

    ReplyDelete
  2. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

    ReplyDelete
  3. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

    ReplyDelete
  4. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

    ReplyDelete
  5. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

    ReplyDelete
  6. By choosing an accelerated payment frequency, you can lessen your amortization period and save thousands in interest inside the long run. mortgage payment calculator canada After use, the amounts are merely added back for the mortgage principal. mortgage payment calculator canada

    ReplyDelete
  7. Looking for Labrador retriever puppies online store puppies available to be purchased If a Lab little dog isn't given appropriate consideration and preparing they could create conduct issues later on. Ensure you're set up to care for a Labrador pup and address the entirety of their issues. Cautiously consider why you need to Labradors puppies for sale near me a Labrador little dog prior to surrendering your money and if a Labrador is the correct canine for your family and way of life Buy labrador retriever near me. In case you're certain a Labrador doggy is for you ensure you're buying a sound pet. Investigate the Little dog contract or click our link for direction.

    ReplyDelete
  8. Thank you for sharing this useful information and keep writing this type post. we offers Hard Disk Drive USB Converter online at affordable price. You need to set up an outer hard drive fenced in area prior to changing interior hard drive to USB, it functions as the Hard Disk Drive USB converter to permit you to move an inner Hard Disk Drive toward an outside USB drive. Buy 8 Port USB Super Fast Charger online from bestbydezign.com at cheapest price. This gadget offers quick charging and this element won't cause your telephone to overheat. It additionally incorporates two USB port yields. Additionally, charging 2 gadgets on the double won't diminish the charging ability of each USB port yield.

    The Conveniently Simple Portable Bluetooth Speakers that is ideal for making and getting little telephone calls advantageously. With strong form quality, simple arrangement and top-class sound execution that gives a false representation of its little size, it is an extraordinary decision in case you are searching for an individual gathering speakerphone.

    The Pull up Lazy Tablet Bracket is ideal for individuals who need to see their telephones or tablets in a without hands climate. The base of the section is looking like an external eight, which is immovably upheld to forestall shaking. The section is furnished with a non-slip silicone cushion to secure your tablet and cell phone.

    ReplyDelete
  9. Ourtime login is the leading dating site for mature men and women. Our aim to help that kind of seniors who looking for right partner for date. We can help you how to create account on Ourtime and how Login ourtime to a search partner.

    Just like ourtime, Zoosk login is another dating site for seniors. It is most popular website for dating in USA. So if you have any issue in Zoosk sign in, Zoosk membership or any other kind of query then visit our website for more information.

    ReplyDelete
  10. Charlies Niece Airways is offering you an offer in which you can celebrate summer vacation in the Caribbean, click here to book your tickets today at a very cheap price. Fly Caribbean direct, Vacationing in the Virgin Islands, Etc.

    ReplyDelete
  11. Thank you for sharing this useful information and keep writing this type post. we offers a Best place to buy laser projector online at best rate. Here you can also purchase Galaxy star projector, galaxy projector, night light projector, star projector and Galaxy Laser Projector online at affordable price.

    ReplyDelete
  12. Thank you for sharing this useful information and keep writing this type post. we provides best options to Buy floral dresses for women online at cheap rate. Here you can also purchase party dresses for women, Backless maxi dresses, gowns for women, maxi dresses, Elegant dresses for women, elegant dresses, backless dress and Criss cross dresses for women online at affordable price.

    You can find a best platform to buy Halter Backless Maxi Dress online at best rate. Here you can also purchase V-Neck Elegant Party Gowns, Sheer Mesh Embroidered Dress, V Neck Backless Dress, Kaftan Womens Maxi Dress, Fashion Print Evening Night Club Dress, Floral Print Dress, Criss Cross Dress and Maxi Gown Dresses online.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Thank you for sharing this useful information and keep writing this type post. we provide best options to Car air freshener online at valuable price. Here we can also purchase Car air freshener online, car laptop holder, car phone holder, dog car seat cover, Portable Bluetooth speaker online at affordable price.

    Retro Player Car Air Freshener
    Premium Multifunctional Car Seat Organizer
    Baby Car Seat Head Support Band
    Anti Lost Smart Bluetooth Tracker

    ReplyDelete
  14. Really it was an awesome. Thank you so much for the post it is very helpful, Keep posting such type of Automatic Extending Retractable Dog Leash. You can know more please visit https://phenomenalbundles.com/


    Buy hair extensions online

    Buy synthetic wigs online

    ReplyDelete
  15. Really it was an awesome article. Thank you so much for the post it is very helpful, Keep posting such type of articles please visit at https://revolutionary-accesories.com/.


    Buy car phone charger online

    Smart LED Display Charger

    ReplyDelete
  16. Thank you for sharing this useful information and keep writing this type post. We are Sexuality coach Virginia, sacrosanct lingerie, sexual healers and shamans, consecrated sex guides, sex mentors, proxies, closeness mentors, sexological bodyworkers and delight craftsmen. Relationship coach Virginia is a daily existence training specialization that assists individuals with finding more prominent satisfaction in their own and expert connections. A Happiness Life Coach Virginia can help customers work through the alternatives to locate a make way with solid advances that lead to an achievable objective. A holistic mentor can likewise help customers make a significant vocation change, for example, beginning another business.

    ReplyDelete
  17. Thank you for sharing this useful information and keep writing this type post. we offers a Homemade spice shop in Vancouver at best rate. Here you can find a best option to Buy fresh blended spices, Homemade spice shop, Best Bakery, Dessert shops, Sweet Shop, Homemade cookies, Best Bakery in Vancouver, Malvani Masala, Green Gravy Paste, Top Cookies Shop in Vancouver, Best Muffins and Top Cookies Shop in Vancouver at cheap price.

    ReplyDelete
  18. We offers the Best CPA service in Ohio, master administrations for people and independent ventures. The organization's bookkeeper works with entrepreneurs in ventures like childcare, medical care, neighborliness, retail,giving bookkeeping and controllership administrations, just as QuickBooks arrangement.
    CPA service in Columbus
    IRS audit representation Columbus
    Tax Debt Relief Services Hilliard

    ReplyDelete
  19. We offers The Best Tax service expert near me. Here you can get Best CPA in Columbus, Tax resolution services, Income tax preparation, Elder care financial services, QuickBooks setup services, Bookkeeping services Dublin, IRS audit representation Columbus, Part time CFO Services and Tax resolution service near me.
    Income tax preparation
    IRS audit representation Dublin
    Bookkeeping services Dublin
    Tax planning services Dublin
    Elder care financial services
    Cash flow management services

    ReplyDelete
  20. We offers a Indian food in Vancouver at best rate. Here you can find a best option to Buy fresh blended spices, Buy homemade food in Vancouver, Homemade spice shop, Best Bakery, Dessert shops, Sweet Shop, Homemade cookies, Best Indian food shop in Vancouver, Malvani Masala, Green Gravy Paste, Maharashtrian food in Vancouver, Best Muffins and Top Cookies Shop in Vancouver at cheap price.
    Punjabi food in Vancouver

    ReplyDelete
  21. replica bags bangkok hermes replica w9r15j5r38 replica bags sydney article c4l21x0k60 replica bags replica bags pakistan n0a72r4r23 replica chanel bags ebay replica gucci bag u8f08d0u08 replica bags korea

    ReplyDelete